Question of the day…I have one of your triggers in my factory rifle and it is wonderful, so I wanted to ask you for help with a barrel droop problem, will a v-block fix this?

Thank you for purchasing our trigger.  Let me see about assisting you with this improperly fitting barrel, otherwise known as “barrel droop”.  To avoid “barrel droop” first and foremost there must be a solid fit between the barrel and the receiver.  If the barrel slips in too easily then the shooter should already be aware that there is not a secure fit and gravity will start doing her work immediately.  Or if the barrel tenon is not the same diameter throughout the length then a teeter totter effect is set in motion.  For instance if the breach end of the tenon is smaller then the shoulder end the weight of the barrel will “pull” the barrel down and barrel droop is created.  Or if the breach end of the tenon is larger then the shoulder end then as the tenon is installed in the mortise the breach carves a larger hole and again a teeter totter effect is created as the smaller shoulder end of the tenon sits is a hole that is too large.  This same effect would happen if the middle of the barrel tenon was enlarged.
KIDD eliminated barrel droop with the utilization of a resistance fit in this mortise and tenon joint, meaning that the KIDD barrel tenon is just slightly larger in diameter than the KIDD receiver mortise and we make absolutely certain that the tenon is the same diameter throughout the length.
Another problem area to be aware of is the proper utilization of the shoulder.  If the shoulder of the barrel does not set flush against the receiver then again the support isn’t there.  Comparable to setting down a tall glass with a convex bottom, it wants to tilt.  We make certain that the shoulder created between the .920″ diameter and our tenon is precise.  This requires specialty cutting tools to create a very clean step.  But if done with less care there will be a ramp rather than a step between these two differing diameters.  This ramp will not support the necessary weight and will prevent the shoulder of the barrel from sitting flush against the receiver.
When this barrel fitment is secure we recommend the v-block screws just need to be snug, around 10 inch pounds, which is just snug enough to keep the barrel from moving forward, but not too tight to pull the barrel out of alignment.  I have seen companies advertise a v-block “fix” for barrel droop, but as I have attempted to say above, there is likely much more going wrong with the barrel and receiver fit.  Solving the problem at it’s source will yield a more reliable and repeatable outcome.  Of course, since we sell aftermarket barrels for the Ruger® 10/22®, I would be remiss if I neglected to attempt to persuade you into purchasing one of our barrels.  Our KIDD .22 Lightweight Fluted Aluminum Sleeved Rifle Bull Barrel has a similar weight and overall balance point as compared to the factory tapered barrel.  Our barrel is guaranteed to group 1/2″ at 50 yards.  For proper installation in a factory receivers be sure to scrape any paint build up in the receiver mortise. We recommend using an anti-seize compound in the receiver mortise to assist in installation. Anti-seize is readily available at automotive stores.  It is best if you can get the barrel tenon started into the receiver mortise, then turn it over and tap the back of the receiver with a rubber mallet. Be sure to be constantly checking the alignment or timing of the extractor slot as you are inserting the barrel tenon.  I hope this helps.  Good shooting, KIDD